Hiroshima

On the 12th we docked in Kobe, Japan. Before we could leave the ship they sent on ambassadors to share with us a welcome and some features of their culture. The most touching aspect of the presentation was when a gentleman asked us to accept his apologies for what happened on September 11th. Hearing this, I was quite stunned. As an American I know I was affected by the tragedy, however, as a non-new Yorker, its almost as if I wasn’t given the right to feel anything. On the way to skydiving in Hawaii I heard a girl behind me say “It may have been an attack on America, but it was an attack on my home!” This immediately made me feel like as simply an American, I didn’t have the right to be changed by the experience. Hearing those words out of the man from Kobe’s mouth, I felt what other countries feel: the American side of the tragedy. It wasn’t just NYC after all, it was DC and PA too. It was an attack on an American monument that was so essential in not only the NY skyline, but in the American society. With all of these thoughts in the back of my mind, I got off the ship and was immersed in Japanese culture. The train system was scary at first because the language difference. Thankfully most street names and ticket stations are written in English as well as Japanese. After a few hours on the bullet train we got to Hiroshima. I traveled with Jenn, Jess, Sam, Emily, Kate, James, Bobby, Jen and Jane. We got to Hiroshima only a half hour before the museum closed so our visit was rather rushed. The weather was also not very conducive to outdoor activities as it was raining all day long. So Hiroshima is different than anything I expected. Im reading a book called “Hiroshima” by John Hersey for my Psychology class so I was prepared to see the museum. Between the book and the museum I was shocked to see how much of the bombing Americans did not know about. As a kid I learned only that they bombed Pearl Harbor and we bombed them twice which ended the war. In the book, I read about true stories of the people who were involved. The things that happened as a result of the bomb were nauseating. One story in particular was of a woman badly burned who reached up to take the hand of a pastor trying to help. Upon grabbing her hand, the womans skin completely pulled off “like a glove.” People who didn’t die immediately died after as a result of extreme burns, radiation or leukemia in the months and years after. For those who survived unharmed, they spent the rest of their lives fearing having children because they were told their genes were ruined. After reading all of this, I wasn’t surprised by what I saw in the museum. What I was surprised by was how much Americans don’t know about the effects of the bombs. One display showed a model of the city before the bomb and then what it looked like after. Miles of the city were obliterated. We also saw the A-bomb dome which was the only building left after the bomb was dropped that still survives today. In the museum they also had on display outfits, a lunchbox, a tricycle and the worst one, a fingertip with the nail still attached. All of this was so hard to see knowing that my country caused it. I know that we were thinking strategically when it happened. But I couldn’t help but feel embarrassed as I walked around the museum being constantly exposed to images and words that were withheld from me until that point. I left the museum feeling ashamed at my education. I felt weak for being part of a nation that is so set on not appearing weak that we cannot admit our mistakes. It’s sad that we teach our children the facts about the war and glorify the American response yet never once are we exposed to the Japanese story. It made me very angry. All these feelings brought me back to the issue surrounding September 11th. Hiroshima was not only a tradegy for Japan, it was a tragedy for humankind.
On my last day in Japan, I returned to Kobe for a homevisit. The husband and wife sat Jenn and I down at their table to talk. They gave us Japanese desserts which weren’t particularly good (anything with the word bean in it should not be a dessert). We talked about many things but the words that will remain with me were those that were said about Hiroshima. Jenn and I asked how Japanese people feel about Bush and Americans. The husband said they respect America and love Americans. They know that most of their protection comes from America (we wrote their constitution—they aren’t allowed to have an army and their location makes them very vulnerable) so he said even if they didn’t like Bush, they wouldn’t say it. He said he knew we were American students because we ask a lot of questions which is apparently something Japanese students don’t do. He then asked how we felt about Hiroshima. We told him much of what I said above and he was very pleased. He said that Japanese people feel very strongly about it and make sure all of their children visit the monument. It seems to be such an important part of their history. He also said they are not angry anymore, rather, they wish to be the example for why war is a bad thing. He also said that the Japanese wish nuclear bombs were not a threat (especially since they are so close to Korea which has bombs that will reach Japan in 10 minutes). It was sad to see how much of Japanese life is shaped by the events around Hiroshima. Speaking with the man and going to the museum helped me form some new thoughts about America, 9/11 and Hiroshima itself. These experiences, the museum and the homestay, were undoubtedly two experiences that will change my life.